My crossover would be internal for a number of reasons. For me, keeping the speakers as close to the original design was important. I did want to use the best components that would fit into them behind the fabric.

The size consideration of many capacitor options was a concern. Paco's evaluation was helpful in determining the manufacturer as Jensen. I could only hope utilize their cheaper metallized paper capacitors which are a lot smaller than the alum/oil. Jensen also had their zinc metallized paper capacitors in 22 and 25 mF. But, the larger wouldn't fit into the typical recess without bulging the fabric cover.

I noticed that the internal wooden speaker panel was routed at the same location on the front and back for the XO backer board. By turning the XO board o the components faced the front I could gain about 5/8 inch in depth behind the fabric. Great!

I utilized Paco's suggested Sledgehammer Inductors. You have to pay more for them to back off the coil to the matching rating, which is explained on Welborne Labs web site. They fit even though they are about 50% larger due to the 15 gauge wire.

Paco was enthusiastic about EARs' use of the Goertz flat copper wire even with the difficulties of preparing the ends. I purchased enough for wiring the entire circuit with Goertz wires. This involved measured sketches and finalizing them by overlaying the actual components before cutting the lengths.

The first, damaged, speaker was wired with one half of Alpha Core's M1 Goertz wire by slipping the second lead out of the plastic sheaths after cutting the lengths. I kept the plastic on and cut it back for connections. This provided some safety in bending without crimping if you are careful. I don't believe I was entirely successful as the confined space necessitated tight bends. You can read the Goertz Wire section for more information.

It was apparent that there wasn't sufficient space for safe soldering without having a way to hold the pieces up in a fixed mechanical connection during heating. As a novice, I didn't have such equipment so a search was on for a flat connector to use for binding the Goertz to the various component leads.

I found something that might work from Newark Electronics of Gaffney, SC. They have a web site, but you order by 800 number. They are a large shipper serving the industry and ship Fed. Ex. the next day. The item stock number is: 28F740. It is called a 'cinch'. It consists of two plates and a small machine screw though a central hole. The plates face each other with small tabs on one edge that catch the edge of the opposing plate. The inside surfaces have small ridges running in parallel tracks on both sides of the screw hole. This must be to grip the wires. They cost 15 cents each. Minimum shipping costs me $7.37 though. You can see the connector in the Goertz XO Photo near the left and right sides.

Eventually, I abandoned the Goertz entirely, primarily due to the difficulty in bending, making good connections, and the threat of oxidation on exposed copper. If it effects speaker cables what will it do to component connections? The screws went through the backing board and could snag on the fabric as the surface was just 1/8 inch behind it. I filed the screw points down and cleaned up the deformations around them to apply some silicone glue. They were still visible, deforming the fabric as did the nylon tie wires.

The speaker tested fine, even without sufficient burn - in of the capacitors. The Jensens take between 200 and 400 hours to reach full potential! I replaced the sock and wood strips only to notice that one cinch flange had come loose when I had finished. The tapping on the wood strips had loosened the thickest connection. That was the bass return that I split into two pieces at the connection to the 25 uF shunt capacitor. This meant two Goertz wires around the capacitor wire braced by the cinch plates. The speaker was still functioning as the contact was being made. I had ordered the second set of capacitors so I decided to try testing silver in the second speaker.

The wait was worth it. I could hear added cymbal harmonics with the silver, and a guitar was more coherent in a vocal accompaniment. It didn't exhibit harshness and orchestral pieces had improved spatial definition. This meant ordering silver wire for the first speaker.

If you are wiring, remember that the feeds are always on the outside end on the panels. The original owner had made an error studying the wiring diagrams in the thread; and not correctly marking the tab positions on the mounting board behind for reference. The bass and treble switch locations, but their feeds are on the outside. Facing the XO forward gives full visual access to the tabs and the wiring on the panel.