P Bear's Magnepan MG1.6/QR stands

(click pictures to enlarge)

I thought I would make my 1.6 Maggie stands from metal instead of wood because I thought metal would be stiffer/stronger for the same 1" size I wanted to use.   The smaller the upright supports the less reflection. I also thought the attachment points would be faster to make with metal.
I bought three 20' lengths of 1" square .062" (1/16") wall tubing for $32 including 8% tax.   If you make the uprights just a touch shorter you could do with 2 lengths.   I plan to make a new stereo rack so I bought extra to be sure.   I already had the ¼" by ¾" flat bar and ¼" by 1" screws and nuts.   Flat bar is pretty cheap.   One 20' length will be way too much and will leave you more for something else.   When you buy steel most places will cut in half (10') for free.
The sterilized sand was $3 for 50 lbs.   I figured I added 12 lbs. of sand to each speaker.

For the points I cut down some long ⅜" bolts into studs and ground one end into a point.   Use a nut on both top and bottom to adjust height.

The cut length of the vertical supports are 50", 35¼", and 21".   To this I welded 1" square by ¼" flat bar that I cut from some stock I had sitting around to plug up the bottom.

As far as the rest of the dimensions are concerned, this is not an exact science.   The biggest decision I had to make was where to support the panel.   I went back and forth on this.   I based my decision on the actual driven vertical area of where the conductors are attached to the membrane.   I noticed when bass heavy material was being played the center of the panel did the most vibrating and the top and bottom the least movement.   Measuring from the absolute top of the speaker the centerline points of the speaker clamps I came up with are: 13⅛", 28⅛" and 43".
I started by pulling one stand of each speaker off.   They stand up by themselves fine this way.   Cut tubing to bottom length and MIG weld to bottom.   Weld 1¼" of 1" wide bar to the front and 2" to the back.   Weld the tabs and supports for the points (pre drill for the point holes) on each end.   Weld the tab for the vertical supports to the back.   Drill a hole in the top front for sand.   Paint.   Fill with sand.   Cover hole with black electricians tape.   Attach to speakers and do the other side.
I then made the clamps, minus the bottom tab.   I drilled and tapped ¼" holes in the back for screws.   Then clamped them at above mentioned places on one side of one speaker using the 3" length of bar to protect the wood in the speaker.   Measured the distance from bottom tab to clamp and subtracted the size of the tabs used.   I used some gas welding rod to figure the angles of the bottom tabs of the uprights and the tabs on the panel clamps.   Made sure there were holes where needed and welded them up.
When bolting together I used steel shims, mostly cut from cargo banding and shim stock, on either side of the bolt between what is bolted up to be sure when tight they are not putting pressure in either direction.

In the pictures I will use black tape to cover the vertical support tops.

All ¼" screws are 1" long.

After painting I didn't want to take any chance of the paint coming off on the speaker cloth so I put black tape on the area where the 3" long bars touch the cloth.

When leveling you can tell if the four points are adjusted level by pushing/lifting on the front or back of the speaker and letting it down again.   If it moves sideways, say to the left, when touching down the left point on the side you are on needs to screw down more.   When it doesn't move sideways when it touches down you got it.   If you have carpet check again the next day, mine settled on one side and I had to re-adjust.

Before adding the sand the bottom sections sounded like tuning forks.   With the sand they went thud.

What got me going on this after years of putting it off was replacing my Musical Fidelity A3cr pre amp and Black Cube phono with a Wright WPL20.   For the first time with these speakers I had too much bass.   Some bass heavy material got tiring.   Not any more.   They lost the flabby sound and gained a more tuneful tightness.   In this way they sound more like cone speakers.   A lot of work and time but well worth it.   Are six supports per speaker better than 2 supports?   Who knows?   I like the way mine look.